Hello Again.
It's been a while since we published a QE Newsletter but things have been rather uneventful of late.  In this issue, we'll try to bring you up to speed on upcoming events and all of the comings and goings around the complex.

First, and most importantly, mark your calendar for our next

This meeting is important.  You should attend if at all possible.  We will be electing Officers and discussing plans for the future.

We have THREE openings on the board which need to be filled...

• Secretary - 2 Year Unexpired Term Remaining
• Member - 3 Year Full Term
• Member - 3 Year Full Term

If you have any interest in serving as one of our members, please let us know.  You can be as involved as you wish.  Our only requirement is attendance at the monthly meetings.

There will be a short regular Business Meeting of the current Board preceding the Annual Owners' Meeting.  The Board will reconvene along with its newly elected members following the Owners' Meeting to finish regular business.

Tuesday ~ Apr 17 ~ 10:00 AM Monthly Board of Directors' Meeting - Owners Welcome

Friday ~ May 4 ~ 5:30 PM Monthly Residents' Social Hour ^* - BYOB - No Foolin'
      As always, you're invited to join your fellow residents for a fun time in our Clubhouse.
     * - Bring your own liquid refreshments and an appetizer to share.

Tuesday ~ May 15 ~ 11:00 AM Annual Owners' Meeting & Election of Board Members - ALL Owners should Attend.

Tuesday, March 20, 2018- Our Board of Directors met at their regular monthly meeting.  Mike Zets presided and all members were present along with Mr. Dave Brown, representing Seaway Asset Management.  Here are some topics of interest from that meeting... *

• Hidden Water Leaks...  Potable Water leaks continue in Buildings 11, 14 and 17.  We will attempt to isolate these leaks as soon as we can coordinate with the Water Leak Detection Company.  Dave Brown will be contacting owners to arrange appointments to enter each unit in these buildings.  Your cooperation is very much appreciated.  The leak under the garage floor in Building #4 was repaired last month.
  
  
• NO Mulch in 2018...  It was decided that applying Bark Mulch to the Limited Common Areas (Flower Beds) around each unit annually was excessive and was contributing to water intrusion into some units as well as damage to exterior mortar and stone.  Therefore, new Bark Mulch will only be applied every other year.  We skipped 2016 and applied mulch in the spring of 2017.  The Board asks that if you have mulch piled up against your exterior stone, you rake it away from the building so that it is BELOW the line of the stone.
  
  
• Pool Opening... The Board approved the opening of our Swimming Pool again this year in May, before Memorial Day Weekend.   We should be ready to formally open the pool as soon as the weather allows.
  
  
• Annual Meeting...  May 15, 2018, at 11:00 AM was set as the date for the next Annual Meeting.  Owners are encouraged to attend.  (Robert's Rules of Order will be observed.)  There are THREE seats on the Board coming open in May.  (Two regular 3 Year terms ending in May 2021 and One, unexpired Term of 2 Years ending in May 2020 due to the resignation of a member last July).  Nominations for these seats will be entertained and a vote will be taken.   A reminder letter will be sent to all owners before the end of April.  Watch for it in your regular mail.
  
  
• Roof Inspections will be done over the next month or so.  The inspector will be looking for problems with Chimneys, Shingles, Gutters and Plumbing/Exhaust Vents.  Do not be alarmed at the sound of footsteps or the appearance of ladders at your Condo.
  
  Table of Contents

Reminders...  The Board has asked us to remind all residents of the following...

Use of the Clubhouse & Pool is Restricted to Residents and their Guests.  Guests MUST be accompanied by a Resident at all times.  Unaccompanied Minors are not permitted at any time.  Our Owners Handbook reminds all Owners that Children (17 & under) MUST be accompanied by an Adult Resident at all times when using the Pool OR the Clubhouse.  It is the accompanying adults' responsibility to clean up and return the facility to the same neat and orderly condition in which it should always be left.  If you observe a violation of this rule, please notify a Board Member immediately.

      Feeding Critters  While you are free to feed Birds and other critters near your unit, you may NOT leave bread, crackers, nuts and such near in the Common Area away from your Condo.  This attracts unwanted vermin (including Canadian Geese) to the area as well as being a hazard to pets being walked nearby.  Please DO NOT leave food in the area around the mailboxes.

      Speed Limits   The Board requested that we remind everyone that Speeding within the complex will NOT be tolerated or ignored.  There are pedestrians walking in the streets and Children/Grandchildren playing outdoors all the time. With longer days, we will have pedestrians walking, skateboarding, skating and cycling at all times of day.  Remember too, that visibility can be poor with sunrises and sunsets causing blinding glare.

Rental Units  The Board has decided to reduce the number of Rental Units in our Complex to ZERO to preserve property values and maintain security.  There are currently 2 Condos which are still being rented by their owners and will be allowed to continue to be rented until these Condos are sold.  The new buyers will NOT be permitted to rent these units after purchase.  Condos which are currently "Owner Occupied" may not be rented if the Owner leaves the property.  Board approval must be obtained for any exception to this policy.

Pet Owners are reminded of the following...

•      Outside Cats are NOT permitted. 
•      Dogs must be supervised at all times and be on a leash if away from their home. 
•      All animal waste must be collected and disposed of at the time of each deposit. 
•      Owners will bear the cost of repair of all damage to lawns, shrubs and landscaping caused by their pets.
•      The installation of new "Invisible Fencing" is prohibited.

Garbage Pickup is Tuesday Morning.  Blue Recycling Bins and Red Garbage Cans may NOT be put to the curb before 5:00 PM on Monday evening.  Bins and Cans are returned to your garage area by the drivers following pickup.  Please see to it that they are stored INSIDE your garage following collection.

Trash and Yard Waste may NOT be dumped anywhere on the property or across property lines into neighboring properties.

Signs are not permitted anywhere in the complex with the single exception of Home Security Warning Signs.  A For Sales sign (not exceeding 4 square feet in area) may be placed inside a window of a Condo being sold.

Clubhouse Rental - Our Clubhouse may be used by any Resident except when rented for a private event.  No more than 7 guests may accompany a Resident without charge.  Larger groups require a rental.  The Clubhouse is available to Residents ONLY for a daily rental fee of $125 for private events.  Non-resident rentals are not permitted.  Please contact Dave Brown to secure a date and arrange for payment.  A Resident must be present at all times while an event is in progress.  Reservations are on a first come, first served basis.  A Cleaning Deposit is also required.  The Pool and Exercise Facility are NOT included in the rental and will remain available to other Residents while the Clubhouse is rented.

Pool Rules are as follows...

•      NO Lifeguard on duty!  Use at your own risk!
•      Residents and their Guests Only.
•      Guests must be accompanied by a Resident at all times.
•      No one may swim alone.
•      Residents & Guests, 12 and under, must be with an Adult Resident.
•      Proper Swimwear is required at all times.
•      Incontenent individuals must wear leakproof garments.
•      No one with open sores or communicable diseases.
•      No Animals or Pets.
•      No glass containers or other breakables.
•      No Running, Diving or Disruptive Behavior.
•      No Private Pool Parties.
•      No Excessive noise, splashing or loud music.
•      No Adult sized Rafts or Body Floats.
•      No Electrical Devices.
•      Towels should be used to protect chairs and lounges from tanning oils.
•      The Pool Area must be kept clean and neat.
•      Pool Furniture may not be reserved.
•      Only Furniture provided by the Association is permitted in the Pool Area.
•      All Furniture must be returned to its original location.
•      Wet Swimwear and Towels are NOT permitted inside the Clubhouse or Exercise Facility.
•      Entrance may be refused to anyone, at any time, for any reason.

Garage & Yard Sales are not permitted.

Fire Pits  are prohibited anywhere in the Complex in accordance with Ohio Law.

Flags & Flag Poles may be erected in your Limited Commons Area (LCA) not to exceed the height of the nearest roof peak.  Only US and MIA Flags may be flown in accordance with recognized flag etiquette.  Team flags may also be flown on game days.

Patios & Fences  The installation of new Patios and/or White Patio Fences MUST be approved by the Board PRIOR to construction.  A drawing of the planned installation must be submitted along with a complete Request for Approval Form.  The size and location of the patio must be in keeping with the others in the Complex.  Fences must be of the same design, make and height of those already installed throughout the Complex.

Shrubs & Trees in Limited Commons Areas may be the property of the Condo Owner or the Association depending upon when they were planted and by whom.  Any questions should be directed to a Board Member for clarification.

Lawn Sprinklers will be turned on as usual in Mid-Spring.  They run at night in an alternating pattern with all areas of the lawn and flower beds getting watered twice to allow water to soak in rather than run off.  Once watering begins, if you notice areas getting too much or not enough water, please let the Board know.  We will be servicing all of the lines and heads to fix or replace any that may have been damaged since last Fall.

Archetichual Changes or Additions of any kind visible on the exterior of your Condo MUST be approved by the Board PRIOR to making any change or addition.  Prohibited items include awnings, shades, windows which do not look like those already installed, large plantings or trees in the LCA, etc.  The use of exterior mounted Air Conditioners is also prohibited.  All draperies, blinds or curtains must be white or off-white on the side visible from the outside.  The Board wishes to maintain the current appearance of the Complex as uniformly as possible.

Snow Removal and Salting  Plowing of streets and shoveling of walks is automatically done when there is a reported snowfall of 2" or more at the Toledo Airport.  Bags of de-icer are available for those who may need them.  Contact a Board member to inquire.

Plumbing and Electrical  All Plumbing and Wiring that services your Condo are the responsibility of the Condo Owner, including toilets, faucets, fixtures, switches, smoke detectors, door bells and all bulb replacements except your outside pole light.   Exterior Coach Lights may not be altered and replacement bulbs are the owners responsibility.

Doors & Windows   Maintenance of all doors and windows are the responsibility of the Condo Owner, including the garage door, its opener and all weather seals and screens.  The garage door must remain white.  You may paint your front door but the color must be approved by the Board.

Questions ?
If you have any questions, please contact a Board member for answers or clarifications.

Resident Directory  We are in the process of updating our Resident Directory with names, addresses, phone numbers, EMAIL adresses and Emergency Contact information.  If there have been any changes or you are new to our community, please send the new / revised information to MikeZets@gmail.com or call 412 670-7646.

Table of Contents

Sylvania Twp. has instituted a free ALERT SYSTEM to send out text or email alerts to subscribing citizens about Police & Fire Emergencies, Road Closures, Public Meetings, Scheduled Pickups, and Other Information.   More Info...

News and Weather on your Phone or Tablet, 24/7.   Never be caught off guard again.   News App...    Weather App...

From My Garden

By editor, Mike Zets

     It's that time of year again when the days have warmed and everything is fresh and green.  Winter is a memory and I start to itch to get my fingers in the soil again.  If you get the same Cabin Fever that I do and want to get started NOW, here are a few things you can do to get started for the new season...

• When it's dry enough, 'top dress' beds with compost, well-seasoned manure, or Top Soil enriched with Fertilizer and 'soil lightening' material such as vermiculite in preparation for planting.  Resist the urge to dig the bed; established beds have a complex soil ecosystem which is best left undisturbed.   Nutrients added from the top of the bed will work their way down into the soil.



• Remove stakes or relax wires installed on trees planted last fall.  Allowing a little swaying of tree stems results in sturdy yet resilient plants.



• Trellises and fencing are also easiest to repair in early spring, with less plant growth to work around and fewer roots to disturb.



• Plan your Spring Planting NOW.  Envision where you want to add Perennials and where you will still have room to plant Annuals when they start showing up at the local Garden Centers.  Walk around your yard and look for empty spaces to fill.  Those in front will do well with low, spreading plants.  Those spaces nearer the house will do well with taller plants or vining plants on trellises.  Most of all, don't be afraid to give Flower Gardening a try.  Start modestly and 'grow' your garden and your confidence all summer long.

Annuals or Perennials

     You have one very big decision to make as you begin your garden.  Do you plant expensive Perennials that will come back year after year, or do you plant fast blooming, inexpensive Annuals that will only be around until the first frost?  Make no mistake. Neither is guaranteed to be successful or look good in your garden.  Some plants don't like the spot you've so carefully chosen for them.  Others will need more or less water, sun, shade or fertilizer than you supply.  Some do well in clay, others need loamy or sandy soils.

     I tend to favor Perennials.  They do cost a lot more than Annuals but they offset the investment by being in the garden for many years given the proper light, moisture and soil conditions.   Some perennial need one or more seasons to mature before making a respectable contribution to your garden's beauty.  Read the labels and carefully follow planting instructions for each one.

     Annuals, however, have a special place in my heart.  They provide instant color, tons of blooms and grow to fill in all those otherwise bare spots between evergreens and perennials.  Again, pay attention to the labels.  They give you a picture of the mature plant plus planting instructions on Sun vs. Shade, the mature plant's height and width, recommended spacing, its blooming period (just once or all season long), and it's growing habits (does it creep, vine, or is it compact and upright, etc.).  I also like to stick those plant labels in the ground next to the plants so that I can remember all season what each one was, especially when I go to buy more next spring.

     When it comes right down to it, plant selection is strictly a matter of personal choice.  Colors, style of blossoms, size of plant... All of these things make picking the 'right' plants for YOUR garden a choice that only YOU can make.  Be creative, experiment, browse through gardening magazines for inspiration but most of all get out there and dig in.  Large or small, gardens can be relaxing, rewarding, good exercise and a source of pride and enjoyment all year long.

Sun or Shade

     One thing's for sure.  Here at Quarry's Edge we all have sun AND shade to deal with.  In the front of your unit or in the rear; maybe even along the side; we have varying conditions.   Plant labels will specify what level of sunshine the plant needs... Full Sun, Partial Sun, Partial Shade or Shade.   The fastest 'Road to Ruin' with a plant is to put it where it doesn't get what it needs.  First of all, remember that ALL plants need light to live.  That's what photosynthesis is all about.  Plants use sunlight to grow.  Some plants just need more or less sunlight than others but they all need it in the right amount.

     So the next thing you have to do is get a clear mental picture of where the sun shines and for how long in each area of your garden.  Does this spot get Full Sun?  All day?  Or just in the morning or afternoon?  With that information, you're ready for a trip to the Garden Center to look around.

     Right plant, right place.  Often we fall for a flower on looks alone, regardless of whether we can give it what it needs.  But you will have most success with both annuals and perennials if you first figure out what kind of site you have -- how much sun, what kind of soil, how close to the hose, how much work you are willing to put in -- and then look for a plant that fits.

     Gardens in Full Sun or Partially Sunny locations are the easiest for which to plan and find specimens.  Almost ALL Annuals will thrive in a sunny location.  Marigolds come in a wide variety of colors and floral shadings.  They love the sunny side of the street.  

     Recommended Annuals for Sunny locations include: Alyssum, Angelonia, Begonia, Calibrachoa, Celosia, Coleus, Cosmos, Diascia, Impatiens, Marigold, Petunia, Salvia, Sunflower, Verbena, Vinca, and Zinnia.  

Some favorites...

Alysum, Dwarf Nasturtium, Verbena
     As the weather warms, pollinators become more active. Y you’ll see tiny bees, wasps, and other insects flitting around.  Hummingbirds come back to visit, and birds hop around scrounging for whatever seeds and small creatures the bare spring soil has to offer.  Do your part by planting these spring-flowering plants that will provide much-needed nectar for pollinators before summer flowers kick into high gear.  You’ll be rewarded by a fantastic display of wildlife in the garden.

Clematis
Tall, 6-10' tall plant (with trellis or post to support this woody, vining perennial) produces an early and lasting display of gorgeous grape purple to violet flowers.  Flowering in masses from May & June to September, tall plants add magic to any structure in the garden.  Great cut flowers.  Sun to part shade.  (Exercise care in this selection.  There are varieties which only bloom once in September.   You want the 'ever-blooming' variety.

     Shade Gardens  Don't be afraid of the shade. Like their solar opposite, sun gardens, with their vibrant oranges and eye-popping reds, shade gardens have their own special appeal.   Shade gardens with their predominance of lush and lazy greens have a natural physical and ethereal attractiveness.

     On even the hottest and most humid of days, the soft yellows and quiet turquoises of the shade garden linger patiently under cool, wide leaves.  After a busy day, a stroll through a shade garden can relieve stress.  Shade gardens can also be places of calm meditation.

     Growing an attractive shade garden may at first appear challenging for some, but finding the appropriate balance between two concepts will help guarantee success: Focus on foliage and plant en mass.  Look for shade plants that have colored foliage or interesting textures or leaf shapes.   Contrast the elliptical long leaf of a Hosta with the feathery leaf of a fern.  Angular Bleeding Heart or Astilbe leaves dance nicely above the rounded, larger and darker leaves of Lady’s Mantle.

When a single specimen is planted alone, it tends to be lost in the shade garden.  Many flowers on shade perennials are small and delicate, therefore, large masses are more effective.  Think of perennials as a ground cover in the shade.  Let them fill in the planting bed completely.  Plant to create curving shapes.  Shade is NOT a place for rows of little plant soldiers in straight lines.

Most shade perennials bloom early in spring before the trees leaf out.  So season-long color has to be found in foliage.  Using white in shade is popular as it stands out nicely because of the contrast.   A white centered Hosta pairs wonderfully with the taller feathery fern.  In a shade garden, slices of setting sun sometimes pierce the shade, lighting up a drift of ferns and making them shimmer like fireworks in the breeze.  More than one couple has been inspired to hold hands and take a walk down a hosta-lined path.  Hydrangeas make the perfect setting for sipping a favorite wine to the sound of friends' laughter.

Pots, Containers or in the Ground...

     Now that you've decided on WHAT to plant and WHERE to plant it, you have a few more things to consider.  Do you want to put your new friends in a permanent or temporary location?   Obviously, Perennials should find a permanent place in the ground but with Annuals, you have a few choices...   Containers, Hanging Baskets, Window Boxes on your fences, and Planters or Pots on the ground or sitting on a patio table, etc.  The choices are almost endless.  BUT... Whatever you do, you should almost never leave your new friends in the small garden pots in which they came home.  The exception being Hanging Baskets and Containers assembled by a Garden Center.

     When you get them home, make sure to water them well and let them rest out of direct sun for a bit to recover from the trip.  Then, if you're going to put them in a Container or Larger Pot, put some stones or sections of a broken clay pot over the drainage holes in the very bottom of the pot and loosely fill the pot about 3/4 full with a high quality commercial potting soil.  Make a cavity in the soil about the size of the plant's pot, gently remove the plant from its shipping pot, spread apart the roots with your fingers and place the plant in its new home.  Scoot the potting soil around the root ball but do not overly compress the roots or the soil near them.  Cover the root ball with a THIN layer of soil and you're done.   One plant transferred to a new home.

     If you're transferring into the Ground, things are just a bit different.  Dig a hole at least twice as wide and twice as deep as the garden center pot.  put the removed soil aside.   We won't be using it to fill in the new hole.  Instead, fill the bottom of the new hole with a high quality, commercial Garden or Planting Soil.  Don't compact the soil too much.  Remove the plant from its pot, fluff the root ball and place it in the hole so that the top of the root ball is LEVEL with the top of the undisturbed ground around the plant and then, fill in the rest of the hole with more Garden Soil.   Whatever you do, do NOT create a depression around the new plant where water can collect and rot away your new addition. In the heavy clay soil around QE, digging a hole is like making a clay pot around the plant.  If it's too small, the plant will become root bound even though it's in open ground.  The idea is to give your young plant room to easily send out new roots into soft soil, not make them fight to break through the clay walls of a small hole in order to grow.

Fertilizer

     One thing is for sure.  The absolute key to success in flower gardening is to provide nutrients in the form of Fertilizer for your garden.  You can't expect your garden to flourish if you don't feed it.  What, When and how Much then becomes the primary questions for most gardeners.   I'm going to assume that you have no real objections to using a commercial fertilizer on your flower beds.   If you want to stay "Organic", I wish you good luck and leave the research to you.

Fertilizers come in either granular or liquid form with varying amounts of different nutrients in an almost endless array of combinations.  If you pay attention to the labeling, you will find Three Numbers the tell you everything you need to know about that particular fertilizer.  Pay less attention to what the manufacturer says their product does while making sure you read and understand those three numbers.  They tell you exactly what's inside the bag or bottle.  The only other things you need to know from the label are what size area will be covered and how to apply it.  Here's what those numbers mean...

The numbers represent the primary nutrients inside.  They are...

Nitrogen(N) is essential for plant growth.  It promotes new growth of leaves and stems.  It's what makes things green. It also contributes to the breakdown of other organic material (like bark mulch) in the garden.   Without extra Nitrogen, whatever nitrogen is in the soil will be absorbed by decaying organics and not be available to your new plants for growth.

Phosphorus(P) promotes healthy root growth and stimulates flowering.  More and larger blooms are what we're looking for in any flower bed.  Introducing phosphorus in your fertilizer will promote both.


Potassium(K) is important for the plants overall health.  It strengthens stems and leaves, making the plant more robust and less likely to succumb to drought.

Since we're applying fertilizer for the express purpose of improving our Flower Beds, I prefer to use a blend specifically formulated for flowers.  I have found a "Bloom Booster" with a 12-9-6 formulation that works very well.  A more common blend is 12-4-8 and can be just as effective.  Just be sure that you choose one that is for flowers and not for Lawn or Vegetables.

     So the next questions are When and How Much.  For the When part, read the label.  It will usually tell you in plain English just how often to apply the product.   As for the How Much, you're not alone if you read "Square Feet" and your eyes start to roll back into your head.   Calculating how many square feet of bed space isn't too difficult but applying "5 Lbs/1,000 Sq.Ft." can easily send the best of us into a catatonic state.

I have a really neat solution to the problem.  I found a liquid dispenser that Automatically measures out the correct amount of fertilizer for me.  It mounts on the faucet (Hose Bib) and I screw my garden hose onto it.   There is a separate shutoff valve that allows me to easily turn fertilizer application on or off while never having to connect or disconnect the hose.  I can even change out an empty bottle for the next full one without even having to mess with the hose connection.  Fertilizing couldn't be easier.  Now, whenever I need to apply fertilizer, I just flip a quarter turn valve and I'm in business.  No fuss.  No muss.  And NO MEASURING!

     For those of you who might want a smaller approach to "No Fuss Fertilizing", I have just the thing.  You might have to search a bit at the big box store but they make a Single serving packet of water-soluble Plant Food that is just enough for a watering can.  Rip open the packet, dump it into a watering can and you're ready to water a hanging basket or flower pot with minimum fuss.  No hoses.   No hard work.  Just the right solution for a beginning gardener with a few new friends on the patio.

      Like it or not, we're becoming a paperless society.   This newsletter is just another example.   We really want you to be able to enjoy the future editions of the newsletter but WE NEED YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS to make that happen.

Your privacy is paramount to us.   Just like Unlisted numbers for phones before cell phones took over the world, you should be able to have an UNLISTED Email address that you only give to those who will respect your privacy.  No Unsolicited Email.   No Junk Mail.   Just a newsletter about every other month from Quarry's Edge.

      The email address you provide will NOT be sold, loaned, rented or shared with anyone, ever.   And it will NOT be published in our Community Directory unless you specifically tell us to do so.

If you have NEWS, INFORMATION, RECIPES or PHOTOS you would like to share with your fellow residents in this Newsletter send us a note at MikeZets@gmail.com.  We'd be happy to include it in our next issue.