From My Garden
By editor, Mike Zets
It's that time of year again when the days have warmed and everything is fresh
and green. Winter is a memory and I start to itch to get my fingers in the soil again. If you get
the same Cabin Fever that I do and want to get started NOW, here are a few things you can do to get started for
the new season...
- When it's dry enough, 'top dress' beds with compost, well-seasoned manure, or Top Soil enriched with
Fertilizer and 'soil lightening' material such as vermiculite in preparation for planting. Resist the
urge to dig the bed; established beds have a complex soil ecosystem which is best left undisturbed.
Nutrients added from the top of the bed will work their way down into the soil.
- Remove stakes or relax wires installed on trees planted last fall. Allowing a little swaying of
tree stems results in sturdy yet resilient plants.
- Trellises and fencing are also easiest to repair in early spring, with less plant growth to work around
and fewer roots to disturb.
- Plan your Spring Planting NOW. Envision where you want to add Perennials and where you will still have
room to plant Annuals when they start showing up at the local Garden Centers. Walk around your yard and
look for empty spaces to fill. Those in front will do well with low, spreading plants. Those
spaces nearer the house will do well with taller plants or vining plants on trellises. Most of all,
don't be afraid to give Flower Gardening a try. Start modestly and 'grow' your garden and your confidence
all summer long.
Annuals or Perennials
You have one very big decision to make as you begin your garden. Do you
plant expensive Perennials that will come back year after year, or do you plant fast blooming, inexpensive
Annuals that will only be around until the first frost? Make no mistake. Neither is guaranteed to be
successful or look good in your garden. Some plants don't like the spot you've so carefully chosen for
them. Others will need more or less water, sun, shade or fertilizer than you supply. Some do well in
clay, others need loamy or sandy soils.
I tend to favor Perennials. They do cost a lot more than Annuals but they
offset the investment by being in the garden for many years given the proper light, moisture and soil conditions.
Some perennial need one or more seasons to mature before making a respectable contribution to your garden's
beauty. Read the labels and carefully follow planting instructions for each one.
Annuals, however, have a special place in my heart. They provide instant
color, tons of blooms and grow to fill in all those otherwise bare spots between evergreens and perennials.
Again, pay attention to the labels. They give you a picture of the mature plant plus planting
instructions on Sun vs. Shade, the mature plant's height and width, recommended spacing, its blooming period
(just once or all season long), and it's growing habits (does it creep, vine, or is it compact and upright,
etc.). I also like to stick those plant labels in the ground next to the plants so that I can remember all season
what each one was, especially when I go to buy more next spring.
When it comes right down to it, plant selection is strictly a matter of personal
choice. Colors, style of blossoms, size of plant... All of these things make picking the 'right' plants
for YOUR garden a choice that only YOU can make. Be creative, experiment, browse through gardening magazines
for inspiration but most of all get out there and dig in. Large or small, gardens can be relaxing,
rewarding, good exercise and a source of pride and enjoyment all year long.
Sun or Shade
One thing's for sure. Here at Quarry's Edge we all have sun AND shade to
deal with. In the front of your unit or in the rear; maybe even along the side; we have varying conditions.
Plant labels will specify what level of sunshine the plant needs... Full Sun, Partial Sun, Partial Shade or Shade.
The fastest 'Road to Ruin' with a plant is to put it where it doesn't get what it needs. First of all,
remember that ALL plants need light to live. That's what photosynthesis is all about. Plants use sunlight
to grow. Some plants just need more or less sunlight than others but they all need it in the right amount.
So the next thing you have to do is get a clear mental picture of where the sun shines
and for how long in each area of your garden. Does this spot get Full Sun? All day? Or just
in the morning or afternoon? With that information, you're ready for a trip to the Garden Center to look
around.
Right plant, right place. Often we fall for a flower on looks alone,
regardless of whether we can give it what it needs. But you will have most success with both annuals
and perennials if you first figure out what kind of site you have -- how much sun, what kind of soil, how
close to the hose, how much work you are willing to put in -- and then look for a plant that fits.
Gardens in Full Sun or Partially Sunny locations are the easiest for which to plan
and find specimens . Almost ALL Annuals will thrive in a sunny location. Marigolds come in a wide
variety of colors and floral shadings. They love the sunny side of the street.
Recommended Annuals for Sunny locations include: Alyssum, Angelonia, Begonia,
Calibrachoa, Celosia, Coleus, Cosmos, Diascia, Impatiens, Marigold, Petunia, Salvia, Sunflower, Verbena, Vinca,
and Zinnia.
Some favorites...
Alysum, Dwarf Nasturtium, Verbena
As the weather warms, pollinators become
more active. Y you’ll see tiny bees, wasps, and other insects flitting around. Hummingbirds come back
to visit, and birds hop around scrounging for whatever seeds and small creatures the bare spring soil has to
offer. Do your part by planting these spring-flowering plants that will provide much-needed nectar for
pollinators before summer flowers kick into high gear. You’ll be rewarded by a fantastic display of
wildlife in the garden.
Clematis
Tall, 6-10' tall plant (with trellis or post to support this woody, vining perennial) produces an early and
lasting display of gorgeous grape purple to violet flowers. Flowering in masses from May & June to
September, tall plants add magic to any structure in the garden. Great cut flowers. Sun to part
shade. (Exercise care in this selection. There are varieties which only bloom once in September.
You want the 'ever-blooming' variety.
Shade Gardens Don't be afraid of the shade. Like their solar opposite,
sun gardens, with their vibrant oranges and eye-popping reds, shade gardens have their own special appeal.
Shade gardens with their predominance of lush and lazy greens have a natural physical and ethereal attractiveness.
On even the hottest and most humid of days, the soft yellows and quiet turquoises
of the shade garden linger patiently under cool, wide leaves. After a busy day a stroll through a shade
garden can relieve stress. Shade gardens can also be places of calm meditation.
Growing an attractive shade garden may at first appear challenging for some,
but finding the appropriate balance between two concepts will help guarantee success: Focus on foliage and
plant en mass. Look for shade plants that have colored foliage or interesting textures or leaf shapes.
Contrast the elliptical long leaf of a Hosta with the feathery leaf of a fern. Angular Bleeding Heart or
Astilbe leaves dance nicely above the rounded, larger and darker leaves of Lady’s Mantle.
When a single specimen is planted alone, it tends to be lost in the shade garden. Many flowers on shade
perennials are small and delicate, therefore, large masses are more effective. Think of perennials as
ground cover in the shade. Let them fill in the planting bed completely. Plant to create curving
shapes. Shade is NOT a place for rows of little plant soldiers in straight lines.
Most shade perennials bloom early in spring before the trees leaf out. So season-long color has to be
found in foliage. Using white in shade is popular as it stands out nicely because of the contrast.
A white centered Hosta pairs wonderfully with the taller feathery fern. In a shade garden, slices of
setting sun sometimes pierce the shade, lighting up a drift of ferns and making them shimmer like fireworks
in the breeze. More than one couple has been inspired to hold hands and take a walk down a hosta-lined
path. Hydrangeas make the perfect setting for sipping a favorite wine to the sound of friends' laughter.
Pots, Containers or in the Ground...
Now that you've decided on WHAT to plant and WHERE to plant it, you have a few
more things to consider. Do you want to put your new friends in a permanent or temporary location?
Obviously, Perennials should find a permanent place in the ground but with Annuals you have a few choices...
Containers, Hanging Baskets, Window Boxes on your fences, and Planters or Pots on the ground or setting on a
patio table, etc. The choices are almost endless. BUT... Whatever you do, you should almost never leave your new
friends in the small garden pots in which they came home. The exception being Hanging Baskets and Containers
assembled by a Garden Center.
When you get them home, make sure to water them well and let them rest out of direct
sun for a bit to recover from the trip. Then, if you're going to put them in a Container or Larger Pot, put
some stones or sections of a broken clay pot over the drainage holes in the very bottom of the pot and loosely
fill the pot about 3/4 full with a high quality commercial potting soil. Make a cavity in the soil about
the size of the plant's pot, gently remove the plant from its shipping pot, spread apart the roots with your
fingers and place the plant in its new home. Scoot the potting soil around the root ball but do not overly
compress the roots or the soil near them. Cover the root ball with a THIN layer of soil and you're done.
One plant transferred to a new home.
If you're transferring into the Ground, things are just a bit different. Dig
a hole at least twice as wide and twice as deep as the garden center pot. put the removed soil aside.
We wont be using it to fill in the new hole. Instead, fill the bottom of the new hole with a high quality,
commercial Garden or Planting Soil. Don't compact the soil too much. Remove the plant from its pot,
fluff the root ball and place it in the hole so that the top of the root ball is LEVEL with the top of the
undisturbed ground around the plant and then, fill in the rest of the hole with more Garden Soil.
Whatever you do, do NOT create a depression around the new plant where water can collect and rot away your new
addition. In the heavy clay soil around QE, digging a hole is like making a clay pot around the plant. If
it's too small, the plant will become root bound even though it's in open ground. The idea is to give your
young plant room to easily send out new roots into soft soil, not make them fight to break through the clay walls
of a small hole in order to grow.
Fertilizer
One thing is for sure. The absolute key to success in flower gardening is to
provide nutrients in the form of Fertilizer for your garden. You can't expect your garden to flourish if
you don't feed it. What, When and how Much then becomes the primary questions for most gardeners.
I'm going to assume that you have no real objections to using a commercial fertilizer on your flower beds.
If you want to stay "Organic", I wish you good luck and leave the research to you.
Fertilizers come in either granular or liquid form with varying amounts of different nutrients in an almost endless
array of combinations. If you pay attention to the labeling, you will find Three Numbers the tell you
everything you need to know about that particular fertilizer. Pay less attention to what the manufacturer
says their product does while making sure you read and understand those three numbers. They tell you exactly
what's inside the bag or bottle. The only other things you need to know from the label are what size area
will be covered and how to apply it. Here's what those numbers mean...
The numbers represent the primary nutrients inside. They are...

Nitrogen(N) is essential for plant growth. It promotes new growth of leaves and stems. It's what makes
things green. It also contributes to the breakdown of other organic material (like bark mulch) in the garden.
Without extra Nitrogen, whatever nitrogen is in the soil will be absorbed by decaying organics and not be
available to your new plants for growth.

Phosphorus(P) promotes healthy root growth and stimulates flowering. More and larger blooms are what we're
looking for in any flower bed. Introducing phosphorus in your fertilizer will promote both.

Potassium(K) is important for the plants overall health. It strengthens stems and leaves, making the plant
more robust and less likely to succumb to drought.
Since we're applying fertilizer for the express purpose of improving our Flower Beds, I prefer to use a blend specifically
formulated for flowers. I have found a "Bloom Booster" with a 12-9-6 formulation that works very well. A
more common blend is 12-4-8 and can be just as effective. Just be sure that you choose one that is for flowers
and not for Lawn or Vegetables.
So the next questions are When and How Much. For the
When part, read the label. It will usually tell you in plain English just how often to apply the product.
As for the How Much, you're not alone if you read "Square Feet" and your eyes start to roll back into your head.
Calculating how many square feet of bed space isn't too difficult but applying "5 Lbs/1,000 Sq.Ft." can easily send
the best of us into a catatonic state.
I have a really neat solution to the problem. I found a liquid dispenser that Automatically
measures out the correct amount of fertilizer for me. It mounts
on the faucet (Hose Bib) and I screw my garden hose onto it.
There is a separate shutoff valve that allows me to easily turn
fertilizer application on or off while never having to connect or
disconnect the hose. I can even change out an empty bottle for
the next full one without even having to mess with the hose connection.
Fertilizing couldn't be easier. Now, whenever I need to
apply fertilizer, I just flip a quarter turn valve and I'm in business.
No fuss. No muss. And NO MEASURING!
For those of you who might want a smaller approach to "No Fuss Fertilizing",
I have just the thing. You might have to search a bit at the big box store but they make a Single serving
packet of water soluble Plant Food that is just enough for a watering can. Rip open the packet, dump it
into a watering can and you're ready to water a hanging basket or flower pot with minimum fuss. No hoses.
No hard work. Just the right solution for a beginning gardener with a few new friends on the patio.
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